tiistai 18. elokuuta 2015

Itsukushima shrine and unexpected familiar sight

One more thing about yesterday, I had bought some books before heading to konbini to get evening meal. I then came to hotel early as I had mentioned. Then when I was about to start to sleep I didn't find the bag with books in it. I searched everywhere. I even looked to toilet and even REFRIDGERATOR just in case it was there. It wasn't. I realized I must have forgotten it to the konbini! Argh! Luckily it was still there so got them back. Good thing it was closeby konbini and not like 5 kilometer away(might not even find right one then! There's bazillion konbini's in Kyoto).

Not best ways to finish day! But anyway back to story of Tuesday.

Today was the day I had decided to visit the famous Itsukushima shrine near Hiroshima. Had I been smart one I would have went there first time I was in Japan while going to Hiroshima but I wasn't so had to go there separately. Luckily it's not that far from Kyoto(thanks shinkansens!) and JR pass would take me there for free, even including the ferry ride. Incidentally it would cost almost 100 euro one direction without it...Since I paid about 346 euros for my pass and have used it for other shinkansen trips nevermind other rides you can see just how good value that pass can be!

Bad thing about this trip would be that I had decided I want to see the torii gate in water during the high tide. Now high tide obeys laws of nature so time was kinda settled...So to get there in time with time to spare in case of issues I had to wake up well before 6AM. Urgh. At least I was able to sleep in trains but that was awfully early wake up. Ain't this supposed to be holiday? I sleep less than when I'm working!

 Breakfast. Got bit mumbled up while going toward the stations. Pretty typical konbini-bento box.

Took some train traveling(mostly reading and sleeping) but eventually arrived to Miyajimaguchi station. This would be where ferry would take. Inside underground passageway through major crossing was this nice looking painting.
 

Occurred to me that this is first time I'm in a boat in Japan. Despite being island country and with sea all around boats aren't that commonly used. Mostly it's with trains.
 First distant glimpse of the gate I was coming to see.

 Day was sunny and bright. Lovely day though bit hot for somebdy from Finland.
 Now THIS was a surprise. I had read a bit about this place obviously but had never seen mention that there's actually wild deers living here! Very much like Nara except here feeding is not allowed. Still those cute beggars came up readily if they thought there was food available. I had trouble eating my own lunch due to one of these buggering me off! And one poor little kid was less than happy when one tried to follow around despite mothers attempt to get rid of the deer. I tried to tempt deer stay with me as well but no luck. Deer just kept walking behind mother and the child.

Deers are cute but for little kids who are shorter than the deers they can be scary.


Deers feeling sleepy in the heat as well it seems!
They came quite close without problems.

 The shine is basically built over water(well at least when it's high tide). Not sure if there's another shrine in Japan built like this.


Typically to Japanese shrines it was all this orange red and white.
 



This was from the position that is most famous and popular for taking photos of the high tide. Alas I had made timing error and entered shrine too early. Didn't feel like waiting over an hour for high tide here nor paying entrance fee again so would be seeing high tide bit off.
 
 

Well with time to kill before the high tide I explored around and found this Daiganji temple. Went in, looked around and added new stamp to brand new stamp book(also at the Itsukushima shrine got another one for shrines).

 Later got picture of myself next to deer. Those sure love company!

Didn't have time to wander far so spent little bit time reading more on the guide to Shikoku pilgrimage.
 As far as I can tell this is on the official high tide moment as per schedule at the front of shrine.

With this done there was still at least one thing I wanted to do in the island. There was this mountain called Misen. Wanna climb!
 This view was drawing me in stronger than seiren song. "Come to climb! Come to climb!". And I obliged.

But first! Yet another temple.
 Typically to Japanese temples long long stairways. These could be issue in Shikoku pilgrimage. Lots of climbing!

 Temple was big building!
 Now this IS spooky. I'm not even deliberately searching for Kuukai related spots(the one to whom the Shikoku pilgrimage goes for) but I keep running into those anyway. Seems this temple is part of Shikoku pilgrimage imitation in Hiroshima prefecture. 87th to be specific.

Well maybe it's not THAT surprising I keep running into him. He is quite famous character in Japanese history and about as well known to Japanese I'm told as say Jesus is for christians or Väinämöinen is for Finnish people...

With all the stamps collected today got small taste of the activities in temples for the pilgrimage proper.




 That's a lot of statues!


 Haha that's just cute face!
 There was this dark room with looooots of statues in it.

Okay so time to start the climb. 90 minutes? I'll make it in 70! Or at least try.
 

 This is what large part of the climb consisted. Stone ladders after stone ladders.

On route I was actually overtaken by bunch of school boys that seemed to be more like RUNNING the stairways up. Now I don't think I'm that slow climber. 2 hours or so to get from Fuji 5th station to 8th station. Beat Ooyama average time easily(65min or so with 90 minutes stated). But I could not keep up with THOSE kids even if I hadn't stopped periodically to take photos. And never saw the again so no initial spurt and soon exhausted...



 Shiraito no taki. There's identical named falls near Tokyo. On friday talked about names with Japanese and most names here comes from nature so makes sense there can be multiple "waterfall of white strings". Still inconvenient though!


Uhoh. This climb just got more exciting. Poisonous snakes around! Seems there's vipers in this mountain...

I opted to climb near the cliff where possible, dead center where not and stomp feet hard as I climb. Not like snakes are trying to attack. They do that when scared by surprise. I figured if snake hears me coming well ahead he's more likely to slip away than attack. Afterall I could be snake eating predator!

 More stairs!
 I was starting to get some good views!
 And some more stairs.
 Here the path took climb down before up some MORE stairs!
 But getting there! These statues are always good sign that you are approaching the goal. Protectors.
 Felt good. Bit thirsty as I was running short of water(hot in here!) so had to be careful of not drink all too early but still good.


 There was small rock next to the path. Bit tough to climb there but boy were the sights great. And I'm not even at the top yet!
 But after walking got there. 63 minutes! Yea!

If I climbed this in 63 minutes wonder how quickly those running schoolboys did it? Respect! Running those stairways without drinks(that I could see) in this heat is bloody impressive from my POV.



I could see so faaaaaar!

 This was around the top as well. Interesting. Didn't know the origin of flame was here. Obviously it wasn't seen(think it was inside big thing in the room probably). But lot of candles inside the room and smelled quite like...traditional Finnish sauna actually.

On way down really embarrassing event happened. There was this path through big stone with hole in it(or 3 separate stones forming short gateway). I saw it was coming but misjudged my height, size of the hole, how far I was from the hole and how fast my steps were taking it. So one moment I'm walking steadily, next I'm standing in ground seeing stars and wondering who is playing drums inside my head! Ouch. That HURT!

Couple old ladies came to check if I was okay. Actually I was. Biggest hurt was to my pride :D And clothes took bit of dirt. We chatted for a while so at least got something in return of that major hit to my head.

Well I'm already nuts enough. Who counts bump or two :D



 Pathway down was actually more natural than pathway up. Well there's 3 or 4 separate paths to the mountain(and down) along with ropeway.

 Eventually got back to bottom and boy was I HUNGRY! Luckily found udon food stall nearby. Bit pricey compared to restaurant proper but wasn't going to walk long way just to save euro or two.
 Tough place to sit though...I was sitting one feet lying freely next to the table(you sit on that yellow thing).
 As I said pricey but taste was good. No complains there. Meat udon for me.
 Went then to see the 5 storey pagon I had seen.

I now was wondering what to do. Low tide was another 3 hours away and if I waited to see it I would be getting to hotel like 10pm. I oomphed and aamphed and arrived to the shrine and...
 Wait a second. It's quite low already! At least I can go check it like this.
 Shrine was already out of water. This was interesting experience. Never seen high/low tide effect quite as dramatic as this one!
 You could walk far without getting too wet. Then I took shoes and socks off and waded in. Water was blessedly warm. I honestly don't understand why Japan isn't more into beach holidays except for Okinawa. They have nice beaches, is surrounded by sea and summer is very hot which is nice time to swim and the water is very warm.

But no. Japan isn't that famous beach holiday spot nor do Japanese seem to swim all that much. No idea why.


 As you can see it's not THAT deep anymore.

I felt this was satisfyingly low tide for me so no more wasted time. Back to solid ground and after finding small river of water to wash feet enough to put in shoes again(no socks which got bit dirtier getting rid of sand from feets) and I was on way up.
 Except that in the 10 minutes or so it took me to surround shrine water was even MORE shallow. Fast! It's still 2 hours for lowest tide as per shrine's schedule. I also found out stairways to that area I had missed that allow quicker route than walk around circle so back there once more!

 Now I was under that gate with shoes still on! This is interesting. Few hours ago I couldn't likely have stood in this with feet on the bottom.

 Something I noticed is that there seems lots of coins as religious offer. LOTS of coins. Coins everywhere.
After trip in ferry was again on the underground walking area and yet another painting.

With this day was long enough so got back to hotel before going for little bit shopping(more light novels and evening meal)

Front of Kyoto station was this colourful fountain. Saw it last year as well but don't think I heard the music. Then again last year there was this multi school dance performance going on. Drowned out music probably.

Tomorrow plan is to walk around temples and shrines in Kyoto getting stamps for my new books. Also need to do laundry!

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